What makes Chef Ritu Dalmia the ultimate 'diva' of Italian cuisine

Italian cuisine, as we know it, has been defined by quintessential classics - pasta and pizza. And while they're fundamentally Italian, there's more to experience from this culinary capital. In India, and especially in Delhi, Italian cuisine became synonymous with Diva by the multi-faceted chef, Ritu Dalmia. The pasta and the pizza, although still a large part of the signature dishes served at the restaurant, are among an array of delicacies that, contrary to popular belief, remain heroes in their own realm, hardly ever doused in tomatoes and copious amounts of garlic. 

"Oh dear, you’re brushing my ego!" A successful 25-year run later, Diva is still a benchmark for authentic Italian meals served with love and laughter that echoes in the walls of its quaint GK-2 restaurant. "I never thought of it as bringing authentic Italian food to India. For me, it was more about bringing back home what I had tried and loved while travelling across Italy," said Chef Dalmia when reflecting on what bringing the Italian culinary scene to India was like. 

Like for most chefs, there was a passion that drove Chef Dalmia to start a restaurant of her own; the passion to relive memories of Italy through food. "I have such fond memories of school trips and work trips with my father across Italy. I was never interested in his work, of course, but always curious about food—whether it was dining at a restaurant or eating at an acquaintance’s home. A few years down the line, though, my main goal truly became about introducing Italian food—the way the Italians ate it—to the people of Delhi," she adds. 

The journey, although full of its own challenges, has been a fruitful one for the chef. 

There's no shortcut to success. And being a woman in what was, and still in many ways, is a male-dominated industry, success doesn't come very easily either. "It was hard. My junior chefs, all of them men, used to giggle behind my back in the beginning. But once they realised I knew what I was doing, things changed. It took faith and trust to build what we have today. It hasn’t been easy, but I wouldn’t have chosen an easy path anyway—that’s too boring," she said. It's true; you don't get to eat the most lusciously whipped Tiramisu without a round-trip to Italy. The popular dessert at Diva is still the quickest way to go to Italy and back. 

"My very first customer at Diva thought it was an Indian restaurant, not an Italian one! But today, with globalisation, people really do understand and appreciate what we dish up. It’s taken us time, but I’m not complaining," said Chef Dalmia. And rightfully so, there's no room for complaints. In her career spanning 25 scrumptious years, she has given Indian food a new name, too. An international vibe yet truly Indian at its core, Chef Ritu Dalmia welcomed guests to Atrangi in 2023, a vibrant Indian restaurant in Dubai, which overlooks the Jumeirah Lagoon. "At the end of the day, it’s consistency and passion that pay off. I’m also deeply grateful to my team—without them, I couldn’t function on my own," she added. 

For the next leg of 25 years, she's got a plan, and it's a simple one - There’s always more to learn. "The day you say you’ve learnt everything, you’re done for! That’s the beauty of the culinary world—it keeps you on your toes and inspires you every single day." Food for thought, perhaps?