After kolhapuris, Prada's next source of inspiration may be traditional Indian juttis

When Prada showcased footwear as part of their S/S 2026 collection in Milan this June, all hell broke loose; with repercussions that spread far wider than Europe. The shoe sighting looked identical to India's kolhapuris; without any original credit to the inspiration, which led the humble sandals to make high fashion headlines. Traditionally termed as kolhapuri chappals across India; especially in the state of Maharashtra from where it originates, the signature toe band and single thong-style footwear was granted a prestigious GI in July 2019, to safeguard the craftsmanship and heritage of the products created in the districts of Maharashtra and Karnataka. 

Not only did the matter launch a series of memes about the cost of expensive designer dupes compared to their more economically priced originals, it also sparked conversation about cultural appropriation and repacked monetisation of Indian products; with everyone, from Bollywood celebrities like Sonakshi Sinha and Kareena Kapoor to fashion designers like JJ Valaya, sharing their opinions on the hot topic. The ignition of amusement and outrage from the court of public opinion; especially Indians, led to Prada sending a delegation of technical personnel to Kolhapur in Maharashtra to survey the manufacturing process followed by the local artisans who handcraft the footwear. Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada's corporate social responsibility chief, later went to state, "We acknowledge the sandals … are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage", in a letter to the Maharashtra chamber of commerce, reported The Guardian.

After much ado, India's much-loved kolhapuris may have got their deserved credit from the Italian luxury house, albeit after it was asked for. But it turns out that the whole debacle may not have been the last time the designer label has taken inspiration from the vibrant, diverse nation. After kolhapuris, it seems as if juttis have caught the eye of the designer label. But without any credited inspiration given to Indian footwear design, we can't be entirely sure. The Prada Antiqued Leather Pumps are making waves, not for the pointed toe and stiletto hell but its brushed finish, visible seams and exaggerated structured toe design, which also resembles India's famous juttis. The Italian brand's footwear comes in multiple neutral shades; from cognac to cocoa brown, is priced at $1,450; which is approximately Rs 1,25,000, and bears no credit in its name, make or inspiration to the Indian footwear design.

Juttis are close-footed shoes which have a signature elongated curled toe, called a nokh. The shoes come in both, neutral tones and brighter shades, sometimes with a flatter closed-toe design and embellishment over its body. They originate from Northern India and although available at various price points depending on design, none cost more than a couple of thousands. They too, are the work of local Indian craftsmen, particularly those belonging to the Chamar and Mochi communities.

Can you expect to see traditional juttis make headlines as "Indian ballet flats" very shortly? Only time will tell. Until then, remember that we called it first.