Black Dandyism: A revolution for fashion and resistance

With the Met Gala set to take place on May 5, 2025 the giddiness and anticipation is almost palpable now—for everyone from us fashion journalists to the self-attested Instagram critics alike.

On the first Monday of May, the internet will yet again be reminded of the power that fashion holds in bringing us together to celebrate sartorial expression. This annual costume fundraising gala is held for The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in New York City, centred around a theme on the basis of which the invited guests curate their ensembles for the evening. “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” is the chosen theme for this year, inspired by the book Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity, by Monica L. Miller. 

While the theme does mould the attire, it also dominates how the event is set up. This year, the exhibition is organised into 12 sections, each representing a signature characteristic that defines dandy style—Ownership, Presence, Distinction, Disguise, Freedom, Champion, Respectability, Jook, Heritage, Beauty, Cool, and Cosmopolitanism. Dandy in itself means an instinctive, yet undue flair for styling to dress well. When paired with ‘black’ as a predecessor, the term evolves into a culturally rich and flamboyant aesthetic—one that champions self-expressive style through bold colours, meticulous grooming, exquisite tailoring, and a profound sense of identity. Standing as a lighthouse of black creativity, this step marks a defining moment towards inclusivity in fashion on behalf of the Met. 

CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE

The notion of dressing well is often associated with vanity, yet this particular theme stands as a quiet act of resistance—a visual rebuttal against racist systems that sought to render Black bodies invisible or subservient. Back in the 18th century, when dignity was denied, self-presentation became a tool of power. At its core, this year’s theme is a catalyst for introspection, as Black Dandyism was formulated as a political fashion movement that stood for something far more than just the vanity of dressing. 

While the Met is revered for its avant-garde showcase of ensembles that leaves the internet in a frenzy of scrolls and opinions, the dress code, "Tailored For You," is a gentle nudge to don an attire that's a literal extension of their identity. 

For anyone planning their ensembles this year, there is an underlying request to approach the curation with thought and intention, not just for the sake of views, but for the sake of expression and representation of one’s voice in the cultural landscape. Allowing the guests to weave in their own nuances, cultures and experiences, one can't help but expect the sartorial display to be eclectic and highly personalised. 

HISTORY AND ICONS

By the 19th and early 20th centuries, this concept reformed into a movement, transpiring into an art form, especially in places like Harlem, that later on evolved into the Harlem Renaissance of the 1920s. The zoot suit became an icon of this defiance, and by the 1940s, Black dandyism was influencing mainstream fashion at large. Duke Ellington, Zora Neale Hurston, and Langston Hughes utilised this style as a statement of cultural pride and intellectualism. André Leon Talley further epitomised the legacy like an armour of individuality and became a revered name in modern dandyism as we know it today. 

This year’s co-chairs—Colman Domingo, Lewis Hamilton, A$AP Rocky, and Pharrell Williams—are not merely the curators of the theme but also torchbearers of dandy style, donning newer iterations. As far as our imagination goes, expect a riot of sculptural silhouettes, sweeping capes, and tailored suits adorned with ruffles and lace cravats. The impending event seems like a well-deserved celebration of Black style, after marginalising it for years. 

INFLUENCE IN CURRENT TIMES

Though rooted in the past, the essence of Black Dandyism is not confined to historical memory.

The concept of the theme, however, wasn’t just a blast from the past: its percolation in the mainstream fashion industry is undeniable. From Saint Laurent’s tailored silhouettes that honour androgynous refinement to Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection under Pharrell Williams is an unmistakable nod to dandyism, and how it continues to shape the fashion lexicon even today. The cyclical nature of fashion is put to use when it finds a new purpose of honouring legacy instead of diluting the ephemeral industry ruled by trends. In today’s time, when political polarisation and cultural division define our society, the dandy becomes a story that needs to be reiterated. 

Hoping this year is more than a feigning thematic display of inclusivity, the Met’s theme is also a reminder of the power of fashion as a tool of defiance, assertion and the right to exist on one’s own terms. While we embrace ourselves to witness extravagant couture, let this be a moment to reflect on the power of our own sartorial choices.