Embracing queerness in fashion with these 7 Indian designer labels

Queerness has always found its place in fashion—whether through the visionaries who couriered its messages, the brands that championed it, or the editors and writers who shaped its narrative. When we truly embrace its premise and boundless freedom, we see it not just for its fashion but also as a reflection of ourselves. 

With queer fashion resisting any absolutes and definitions, it often takes multiple forms, making it impossible to define a queer aesthetic. Maybe that’s the beauty of the phenomenon—it sees everyone, welcomes everyone, and celebrates everyone. 

With self-expression as a continuous conversation in the world of fashion, queerness is deemed to culminate into sartorial codes. Picture Harry Styles in flamboyant floral satin shirts with plunging necklines; Ranveer Singh redefining masculinity with his unapologetically loud feminine wardrobe; Timothée Chalamet in a bright red, backless look at the 79th Venice International Film Festival; or Brad Pitt at the Berlin screening of Bullet Train, sporting a brown linen skirt—women’s separates are no longer confined to women—they have found a rightful place in men’s wardrobes.

Throughout 2024, various art forms explored the concept of the male and female gaze. Queer fashion, which often takes the shape of genderless fashion, steps beyond this juncture and becomes a catalyst of expression. Queerness in fashion is inherently a colloquy of rebellion—self-expression against societal norms and self-love against all odds. 

High-end couture has long held the baton for queer narratives—think Yves Saint Laurent’s Women's Summer 2025 collection and Gucci’s reconstructed styles—but India’s homegrown brands are carving their own space, fostering the Indian counterpart of the International discourse.

While we remember Rohit Bal’s Swan song in 2024, a designer who redefined fashion beyond the stigmas of gender, HELLO! India lists its favourite brands to turn to in 2025. These brands democratise fashion by liberating fabric and colour from traditional confines and offer a spectrum of choices that celebrate the LGBTQIA+ community. 

1. Kaleekal by Alan Alexander Kaleekal

The Kerala-based brand is subverting societal norms in more than one way. With their experimentative silhouettes and utilisation of Indian crafts and handloom fabrics, they reinterpret gender-neutral styles with finesse. Lauded at both Lakme Fashion Week and London Fashion Week, it continues to redefine clothing in the Indian context.

2. Kallol Datta

Lionised for his verbosity on the politics of fashion, Kallol Datta’s eponymous label turns clothing into a form of intellectual discourse. The conversation behind his collection is all about reconstructing and repurposing. Marrying rigorous research with fearless experimentation, the Kolkata-based brand produces eccentric pieces in every collection.

3. Bobo Calcutta by Ayushman Mitra

A riot of colours, expression and liberation, Bobo Calcutta encapsulates the spirit of queerness with an unmistakably Indian flair. Drawing inspiration from mythology and folklore, Ayushman Mitra infuses art into every sartorial piece, prophesying creations outside the boundary of gender norms.

4. Balav Official

Propelling a sartorial journey of self-expression, Balav—a luxury Indian genderless streetwear brand—curates pieces for those who dare to experiment, evolve, and stand apart. Think sculpted silhouettes infused with an edgy, utilitarian aesthetic, reimagined through baggy separates. Each design transforms everyday dressing into a bold fashion statement that challenges conventional gender norms.

5. Bloni by Akshat Bansal

Eccentric silhouettes and exquisite tailoring—Bloni has something for everyone. Revered across the fashion world, the brand positions itself as the future of fashion, crafting collections that merge wearable art with progressive aesthetics, redefining the boundaries of what fashion can be.

6. Biskit

Championing the philosophy of a gender-neutral society, Biskit by Shruti Biswajit and Harsha Biswajit is a concept studio at the helm of the coalescence of art, fashion and design. Embodying particular concepts such as that of ‘space’ and ‘mind’ in all of their collections, they only craft single edition pieces or a maximum of 21 editions of every style. Propagating less consumption, their pieces are not only handcrafted but also sustainable, delivered with the provenance of the piece. 

7. Nor Black Nor White

Working with the profound spirit of experimentation with art and (tex)styles, Nor Black Nor White continues to create garments that lie in what they call the grey space of culture. Shaping diversity and design, their garments are an amalgamation of traditional textiles and modern silhouettes. Through their signature vibrant hues and bold prints, they reinterpret archival and scrap fabric to curate expressive and luxe silhouettes.

These brands reflect the reverberating boldness and grandiosity of the LGBTQIA+ community with their designs and philosophy to change the narrative of fashion, one outfit at a time.

Edited by Sabrina Mathews