How ‘The Royals’ pays tribute to Abu-Sandeep’s legacy couture through archival looks

Zardozi hand-embroidery, real mirror work, flamboyant borders, and jewel-toned hues; while these elements may conjure a bygone image of ornate grandeur, they are often too quickly relegated to the archives of Indian fashion. Once dismissed as “too loud” for the modern palette, there is also an undeniable assertion in the fact that maximalism narrated stories with layers and nuances that are unfathomable to those, who today preach its counterpart of minimalism. While we have rejected the notion in the name of evolution, it is impossible to eradicate its place in the legacy of fashion. Designer duo Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, who have long held the maximal baton, have made a powerful return to the cultural forefront; reminding us why more is, indeed, more.

Foraying into the modernity medium with a bang, ABJS have made their OTT debut with Netflix India’s much-anticipated series The Royals. Lending both; their fashion sensibilities as well as a cameo in the last episode, the otherwise known “emperors,” made a discerning case for regal elegance. Perhaps, this might be the beginning of the much awaited return of maximalism, owing to its dopamine-inducing characteristics. While the duo has cast an indelible influence on Indian fashion over the course of the last four decades, this time, they found their muses in the Bollywood stars of the show; namely, Zeenat Aman, Ishaan Khatter, Bhumi Pednekar, Sakshi Tanwar and Dino Morea. 

The Royals has been making headlines, owing to their cast, fashion and royal appeal—thanks to Abu and Sandeep for aiding the case. The series explores the entertaining trials of a fictional royal family, who dress in ensembles that speak volumes. Reviving pieces that are as old as 38 years, the costume designers turned to these vanguards of fashion, who have reminded us time and again, how timeless is the extravagance can be.

“We dove deep into our oldest and most diverse collections,” the designers shared in an exclusive with HELLO!. “Zardozi, Resham, Gypsy, Mirror—combined with kurtas, bandhgalas, and angavastras—created a magical blend of silhouettes that resulted in a soulful, sensuous and supremely eclectic wardrobe. Maximalism isn't modern. It is our eternal aesthetic, our forever sensibility. It is the very core of our design philosophy. More craftsmanship, more layering, more majesty.”

On a quest to experiment with newer formats, the legacy duo Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla have spent the past five years experimenting with fashion films. However, their OTT debut was a new experience for them. “We loved the characters we were dressing; they’re all such gifted actors,” the designers shared. Zeenat is simply iconic, Ishaan is bursting with incredible talent and energy. Bhumi is a favourite. We were drawn to the grandeur of royal India. It's made for our fashion,” explained the stalwarts. Infusing almost every Indian textile and craft imaginable in this project, it is safe to say that this was a culmination; or even a progeny, of the opulent legacy of Indian heritage.

The OTT headliner series has facing furore from across the country, albeit for its portrayal of Indian royalty. However, by choosing to associate their fashion with the actual legacy couture, they have stood out in an age where new shows debut everyday. Abu Sandeep’s profoundness for craftsmanship can seldom go unnoticed. Providing a glimpse into their favourite looks, the duo explained how they poured out their hearts into the making of each piece but even they couldn’t help but pick out their favourites. “Bhumi in the mirror work masterpiece and Ishaan Khatter in the organza kurta and zardozi and mirror sherwani—those were our stand-out, stand apart, showstoppers,” they revealed. 

Finally, to not talk about the iconic legend, Zeenat, would be a remiss to the opportunity. Donning a red lehenga that was almost 20 years old, she made a case to shake away the notion that only new brides can look fabulous in marital red. “We wanted her in an outfit that broke the bar when it came to sheer glamour and dizzying detail. Zeenat rarely wears such embellished and extravagant clothes and was naturally nervous about doing so. But she owned the look. She carried it off in her unique and spectacular style,” unveiled the paragons. 

With an enticing blend of drama and high fashion, The Royals doesn’t just offer a look into fictional nobility but also gives us a tiny glimpse of the real Indian royalty that resides in the design lexicon of Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla. As someone whose first couture show was their unforgettable FDCI showcase, I can assure you—Netflix does a good job, but even it can’t capture the full resplendence of their craft.