Schiaparelli's neckpieces have the fashion world in a chokehold

Elsa Schiaparelli's love for fashion could be best described through the quote: "Dress designing is not a profession but an art." Now at the helm of the Italian haute couture house, Daniel Roseberry continues to do justice to her vision. Roseberry has taken his specific art form a step further with his mastery of jewellery design. At the Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2025 Haute Couture show in Paris, the designer showcased an outfit that has grabbed the collective attention of the internet; justifiably so. The said look was a crimson-coloured dress that came with the neckpiece of a beating heart attached to it which physically thumped; giving it a realistic appearance.

Quintessentially Schiaparelli, the look is bold, innovative, and surreal; like so many other looks by the house over the years. The beating heart necklace was an ode to Salvador Dalí’s 1953 creation, The Royal Heart. Featuring the gem-encrusted organ pulsing inside a golden frame, Schiaparelli's version used a life-size, mechanical heart nestled on a sculpted, faux décolletage. Its slightly unsettling appearance was a result of red rhinestones and the mechanical movement allowed it to visibly; and realistically, throb. 

Schiaparelli's genius jewellery making streak, under the direction of Daniel Roseberry, can be traced back over the years. One of the most monumental pieces was Bella Hadid's lung neckpiece that made headlines for a week straight. The Palestinian-American model stole the show on the red carpet in a Fall 2021 black wool-crepe gown which she ingeniously paired with a gold lung necklace, designed by the house. 

A massive gold-toned breastplate sat in place of a blouse, delivering a sense of irreverent grandeur. The stunning neckpiece around Hadid’s neck was inspired by a set of human lungs, which was in theme with 2021's Covid health concerns. The 3D necklace set off a chain reaction, leading labels to create many similar pieces. The necklace saw jewellery as an art form and clothing even; blurring the lines between fashion and fine art. 

Another noteworthy moment when Schiaparelli neckwear stole the show was when Dua Lipa recently walked the red carpet for the 50th Chaplin Award Gala in New York City. She donned a head-to-toe Schiaparelli look from Roseberry's Fall/Winter 2025/26 ready-to-wear collection. The singer was spotted in the house's brown knit dress that commanded attention with a neckline so deep, it ended at her hip bone. However, the main eye-catcher was the oversized golden statement necklace that was draped in a chandelier-style across Lipa’s torso. The reason why this necklace got people talking was its unique design and composition. 

Nita Ambani showed love to Schiaparelli neck pieces during Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant's pre-wedding bash in July 2024. Nita, who is known for her opulent fashion choices, wore a Roman-inspired Schiaparelli toga for one of the events that she paired with a good chunk of gold jewellery from the house i.e. a double brooch featuring gilded brass, topped with a bean mouth on one side and the brand’s signature enamel eye topped with eyelashes on the other. Her opulent and artistic look truly remains one-of-a-kind.  

Schiaparelli's close relationships with artists like Salvador Dalí and the embrace of surrealist themes led to jewellery that was both, artistic and unexpected. It has gone on to establish the house as having a uniqueness that very few can own. With its many fashion moments known for their shock value, plenty of whimsical elements used in Roseberry's designs have left onlookers in a state of awe.