Rediscovering India's long-forgotten desserts, from Gujarat to Karnataka

India has long been known for its culinary heritage; which is not just about food, but also emotion. From temple prasadams to royal dishes, desserts hold a place of pride in India's culinary reputation. However, several traditional Indian sweets that were once enjoyed in Nawabi courts, temple prasadams, and lavish celebrations have gradually sunk into oblivion with contemporary patisseries and Western confections take over. Today however, artisanal confectioners, heritage revivalists, and food historians are working to revive these lost gems. 

Without its characteristic desserts, many of which have been lost to the passage of time, Awadhi cuisine would not be as magnificent. Makhhan Malai is a delicious wintertime frothy treat of rose water and saffron. Made by hand using morning dew and butter that has been gently churned, this ethereal treat is often compared to Delhi's Daulat ki Chaat.  

To make a living after the plague struck India in the late 18th century, Ram Ratan Singh Thakur's family moved from Unnao to Dharwad, Karnataka. They began preparing a sweet dish called Dharwadi Peda, which was modelled after Mathura Ka Peda, which is made of milk from Dharwadi buffaloes, sugar, and a secret ingredient that shopkeepers have claimed to be either salt or caramel, but has never been identified. Since then, the Thakur family has continued to uphold their tradition of the Dharwadrwadi Peda, and till date, they have never revealed the secret ingredient that elevates it above the Mathura Peda.

The sweet, Ariselu, derives its name from ari, meaning rice and selu, meaning flour. It can be a healthy sweet dish if taken in proper limited amounts, as it is made with jaggery for sweetness instead of artificial sweeteners. Some people find its similarity to Puran Poli, as it is crispy yet chewy but has its own charm.

Tirunelveli Halwa from Tamil Nadu dates back to the late 18th century. Tirunelveli Halwa uses red wheat, sugar, ghee, and water from the Thamirabarani River, which is believed to impart a unique taste due to its mineral content; and is finally garnished with cashews.  

Kerala's Elaneer pudding is an ultra-tender creamy pudding which is made with tender coconut water, coconut flesh, and milk along with agar or gelatin to give it a silky texture. 

Some Bengali sweets are still overwhelmed by their more well-known peers. For example, Shor Bhaja is a laborious, several-layered milk dessert that is soaked in sugar syrup and then deep-fried. It is currently an uncommon find, but it used to be a favourite among zamindars.

Ghewar, a chickpea-flour-based fudge flavoured with cardamom and ghee; which also formerly held royal rank, has supplanted Rajasthan's Dil Khushal or Besan Ki Chakki.  Although it still exists in certain traditional homes, this rich, mouthwatering treat merits a spectacular resurgence.

Royal feasts used to feature Gujarat's Sutarfeni, a delicate, fine-threaded treat prepared of roasted wheat flour, ghee, and almonds. It provides a distinct eating experience that few contemporary confections can match; thanks to its flaky, cotton candy-like texture. 

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Indian sweets are more than just confections; they are cultural treasures that have been crafted and preserved for centuries. However, mass-produced sweets and desserts in the Western manner have eclipsed many of these treats in today's hectic society. Today, luxury hotels, artisanal confectioners, and heritage revivalists are resurrecting these lost treasures in gourmet formats, independent bakeries and home kitchens in response to the growing interest in culinary heritage. 

Text by Aliza Noor

Edited by Dayle Pereira-Alemao

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