Sunscreen myths, debunked: What Indian skin really needs

Sunscreen is the one product that is suggested to be used more than any other lifetime. And yet, it remains the product most people understand the least. We trust the number on the front of the bottle, we trust the words ‘broad spectrum’, and we assume that someone, somewhere, has made sure it is all safe. Here are a few things worth reconsidering.

Myth: SPF is the only number that matters

SPF measures protection against UVB rays, which are the ones responsible for sunburn. But for Indian skin, the SPF drama is, frankly, yesterday’s conversation. UVA penetrates deeper, accelerates ageing, and worsens pigmentation. Visible light is now documented to trigger hyperpigmentation in melanin-rich skin types. Infrared radiation contributes to collagen breakdown. When I was researching my textbook, Sunscreens for Skin of Colour, one of the clearest findings was that for most of the world’s population, sunscreen needs to go well beyond UVB. A truly protective sunscreen addresses the full spectrum, not just the number on the label.

Myth: All chemical sunscreens are unsafe

This is where nuance matters. In 2019 and 2020, the US FDA published studies showing that several commonly used chemical UV filters — oxybenzone, avobenzone, octinoxate, among others — were absorbed into the bloodstream at levels far exceeding the safety threshold, some at over 500 times the limit. That was a legitimate concern. But the real distinction is not chemical versus mineral — it is old-generation versus new-generation. Newer filters like bemotrizinol, which the US FDA has proposed for approval after a 26-year gap in new sunscreen filter approvals, have not been shown to absorb at any significant level. Science has moved on, and our sunscreen choices should, too.

Myth: If it feels good on the skin, it must be working

Texture and protection are two entirely different things. A sunscreen can feel luxurious and still leave significant gaps in UV coverage. Today, formulation science has advanced enough that there is genuinely no reason to compromise — you deserve something that protects comprehensively and feels good enough to wear every single day. Because the best sunscreen in the world is the one you actually use consistently.

Fact: Indian skin has specific sun protection needs

Melanin-rich skin does offer some baseline UV protection, which is why skin cancer rates in India are significantly lower than in Caucasian populations. But that same melanin makes us far more vulnerable to visible light-induced pigmentation, which is the kind of damage most sunscreens are not even designed to address. When you add the Indian climate — high UV index for most of the year, humidity that affects how products wear, and pollution that generates free radicals — it becomes clear that a sunscreen formulated for Scandinavian winters is not going to serve you the same way in an Indian summer.

What to actually look for when choosing your sunscreen

Start by reading the back of the pack, not the front. Look at the UV filters being used and ask whether those filters have current safety data supporting them. Check if the sunscreen offers protection beyond UVB and UVA — does it address visible light? Is the formulation photostable, meaning it will not degrade and stop working halfway through your day? And consider the environmental profile, because reef safety is no longer a niche concern — an estimated 14,000 tonnes of sunscreen enter coral reef ecosystems every year, and what you put on your skin eventually washes off into the world.
It is always suggested that even if you were to never see a doctor for your skin concerns, you will still need to make good friends with sunscreen. It is a long-term relationship, one you are going to have every single day. That relationship deserves more than just trusting the marketing on the front of a bottle.

Text by Dr Renita Rajan, Founder, CHOSEN By Dermatology, is one of India’s most trusted dermatologists and a pioneer in aesthetic skin science. She founded CHOSEN with one goal: to bridge the gap between clinic-grade science and everyday skincare, with complete respect for skin of colour, Indian climates, and long-term safety.