The fashion world's winds of change are in motion. We're no longer turning West. Instead, we're looking inward, with a promise to grow exponentially. And witness to this change is the iconic Gateway of India. Dior chose the legendary monolith for their first show in India in 2023. Vivienne Westwood followed.
Vivienne Westwood's bold, punk mess structural India capsule made its grand presence on a rainy evening in Mumbai with Bollywood's notable names in attendance. From the time the brand had made the big announcement of their collaboration, the aim was to bring something special to the table (or rather, the runway); the late designer's chaotic magic fused with Indian textiles.
The legendary artist was no ordinary designer. Her voice—provocative. Her designs—revolutionary. Whatever is said of the fashion icon doesn't speak enough of her influence. Her collections on the other hand have a voice of their own. Think frothy plaid ruffles, painted corsets and lots of volume. Lending a humming tune to this belief were India's humble khadi and chanderi fabrics, layered to add texture and dimension to the brand's signature pieces. The runway honoured the craftmanship of hand-woven fabrics, sourced from across India—provided by esteemed textile houses; Khadi India and Aaranya/Gwalior (Madhya Pradesh). The show was supported by HSBC, Vivz Fashion, the Ministry of Textiles and the Government of Maharashtra to bring it to fruition.
The Spring Summer 2025 collection blended with a nod to Indian clothing reigned supreme, whether paired with or without some iconic archival pieces. Although the theatrics of a traditional Vivienne Westwood show were missing; what lacked in lustre was compensated by the glittering guest list in attendance. All were dressed in the designer's creations albeit highlighting their styles. Kareena Kapoor in a deliciously rich crimson off-shoulder gown and Janhvi Kapoor in a sequinned version of a similar silhouette were among the stars who were spotted. Radhika Merchant styled by Rhea Kapoor stood out from the crowd by epitomising the corset saree trend with the genius pairing of a Renaissance-painted corset and an ombre chanderi saree.
Although the late designer's legacy lives on through Andreas Kronthraler, he was absent from the show. The CEO, Carlo D'Amario was and he thanked the august company of the attendees—the sponsors, celebrities and fashion connoisseurs who came to witness history in the making.
Vivienne Westwood's show in India was not absent of controversies. But despite the lingering shadows of fails and misses, those who attended had a story to tell, of a night to remember. As for Vivienne Westwood herself; her legacy lives on—in a completely eccentric and brutally honest fashion.