Why we haven't forgotten about Alia Bhatt’s Gucci saree from Cannes

Of all the celebrities who walked the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival 2025; from Bollywood icons to Hollywood acolytes alike, the most talked-about look was Alia Bhatt’s. A fortnight later, its rippling effect continues. Not merely because it is a garment that, in India, transcends fashion to symbolise identity; but also because, Bhatt wore a Swarovski crystal-embellished Gucci saree, merging the 104-year-old Maison’s legacy with South Asian tradition. Styled by Rhea Kapoor, the fisherman-net-inspired design subtly echoed Gucci’s interlocking Gs, after the initials of founder Guccio Gucci. Brought to life in the 1960s by his son Aldo, the motif became a defining emblem of effortless luxury and casual chic.

It sent the watching hordes into ecstasies of praise and adoration and almost a week later, I still feel a lingering sense of déjà vu. I can’t help but wonder: does the outsize reaction have less to do with the craftsmanship behind Gucci’s saree—or even the fact that Bhatt wore it—and more to do with a collective obsession of the glamourisation of Indian aesthetics by the West?

When Bhatt walked the Cannes red carpet in Gucci’s first-ever saree, it wasn't just a fashion moment, it was a strategic shift. This wasn’t merely about style. It was about storytelling, market expansion, and culture taking centre stage. It's fascinating how revered luxury brands are increasingly embracing Indian aesthetics. This cultural fusion; in the case of Gucci, not only marks the beginning of a new fashion chapter; it also reflects the industry’s recognition of South Asian sartorial heritage, soaring titanic heights, and its ongoing influence on global style.

LUXURY IN INDIA

India’s luxury market is booming, with projections exceeding €30 billion by 2030, according to The Business of Fashion. This rapid growth is propelled; not just by the country’s increasing GDP but by a burgeoning middle class eager for luxury and cultural pride. Beyond the market numbers, Indian culture; through its expansive weddings and chart-topping films, has established itself as a global influence.

At the same Cannes Film Festival where Bhatt made waves in her Swarovski crystal saree, the legendary actress Sharmila Tagore also graced the red carpet wearing a bottle-green silk saree bordered in gold zardozi, which was an elegant nod to the heritage and craftsmanship of India. Yet, Bhatt’s interpretation of the nine yards of fabric gained critical acclaim, underscoring how the glamorisation of Indian aesthetics by international fashion houses continues to shape conversation.

The diaspora, who are many millions strong, plays a pivotal role. Indians living abroad actively seek cultural connection, shaping global fashion choices, while creating the perfect bridge between tradition and modernity.

LUXURY'S EVOLVING DEFINITION

This isn’t the first time a luxury fashion house has drawn inspiration from Indian silhouettes. The 1950s saw Hubert de Givenchy create two saree-inspired looks for Audrey Hepburn, including a sunset-yellow number in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, which mimicked Fortuny pleats and looked statuesque as she smoked a cigar. Christian Dior introduced a lehenga-style gown in 1955, embroidered in gold bullion and minuscule pearls, whilst Elsa Schiaparelli designed a collection inspired by the Princess Karam of Kapurthala in 1935, which was an amalgamation of French haute couture and Indian royal dress codes.

More recently, designers like Dries Van Noten have held saree-themed runway shows, reflecting an ongoing dialogue between East and West in fashion. Who can forget the Belgian designer’s Spring/Summer 2010 show, which saw models walk down the runway wearing silk dresses wrapped around their torsos; well as sharp-shouldered jackets; each either inspired by a saree or cut just above the ankles to mimic a saree in indigenous khadi and embroidered floral patterns? These moments, however celebrated, were often framed through a Western gaze, sometimes romanticising Indian attire.

Today, the dynamic is shifting. Luxury is no longer solely about exclusivity or opulence. It’s about authenticity, heritage, and cultural depth. Brands like Gucci are navigating this with calculated diplomacy by engaging with Indian aesthetics in ways that resonate globally, without erasing their origins.

THE CULTURAL CONVERSATION

Bhatt’s appearance stirred conversations online, ranging from celebration to critique. Some questioned whether a Swarovski-studded Gucci saree was a saree at all, while others debated the West’s appropriation of Indian fashion versus its genuine appreciation. This conversation mirrors larger tensions in global fashion between cultural exchange and cultural commodification.

One Hindustan Times article captured the ambivalence well: “In what universe is this a saree?” The question wasn’t just about fabric or draping but about authenticity and ownership. Meanwhile, the Times of India noted the excitement but also highlighted the layers of meaning: “Bhatt’s look marks a milestone for South Asian representation on a truly global stage.” On Reddit, the dialogue became more informal but no less charged, with many dissecting Gucci’s social media posts and debating the politics of representation.

WHAT BHATT'S GUCCI SAREE TRULY REPRESENTS

At its core, Bhatt’s Gucci saree is a symbol of evolving global fashion dynamics. It underscores South Asian aesthetics gaining mainstream luxury validation. It also prompts reflection on what that validation means. Is it about elevating Indian craftsmanship and heritage to the level of the sublime? Or is it a manifestation of the West’s fascination with “exotic” beauty, now packaged as high fashion? The answer, inevitably, is both; and more. It’s a complicated thrill, born from the collision of cultural pride, commercial opportunity, and the global quest for relevance. Bhatt wearing Gucci’s saree is a watershed moment: not just for fashion but for the ongoing narrative of South Asia’s place on the world stage.

In a world where fashion is increasingly a language of diplomacy, the sartorial choices made at Cannes are never just clothes; they are statements of identity, aspiration, and power. Bhatt’s Swarovski crystal Gucci saree was more than just a dazzling outfit; it was a message. A weaving together of heritage and haute couture, of local identity and global allure for everyone to see. As it continues to ripple across social feeds and fashion conversations, it reminds us that clothing, especially the saree, carries stories far beyond fabric and thread.