HELLO! Exclusive: Monarchs of the mountains, The Namgyals

Nestled high up in the Indus Valley, surrounded by cultural gravity and the wondrous beauty of Leh, His Highness Jigmed Wangchuk Namgyal — the present titular ruler of Ladakh — is seated in an apricot orchard at Chulli Bagh, a stone’s throw away from his home, Stok Palace. “I can hear the trees making different noises, like a melancholic melody,” he says. “That is what brings me joy. The entire setup here is rugged, nothing manicured.”

The sacred palace, located a scenic 20-minute drive from Leh airport, is a living legacy that the Namgyal dynasty has preserved since the 1800s. It’s where heritage hospitality rubs shoulders with the spiritual reverence Ladakh is known for. And such is the nature of this architectural marvel that despite its striking five storeys, it’s hard to spot from high up, and rightly so — after all, it was built for the safety of the family. “The palace has become a part of the landscape. It’s been the beginning of a journey, not the end,” says the king. “At one time, it was one of the most iconic buildings in this part of Central Asia — certainly the tallest. It continues to be admired till date.”

‘Growing up in Stok, life was simple, meaningful, and full of warmth. There wasn’t much pressure or expectations — just a natural flow to the day, filled with stories, laughter, and connection’  – Stanzin Jigmed Namgyal

For his son, Prince Stanzin Jigmed Namgyal, Stok Palace is far more than a commercial hotel — despite having opened to guests in 2007, with five rooms (there are five more coming up), and now attracting the who’s who of the world, including His Holiness, the Dalai Lama. “It’s still very much our home,” he emphasises. “Guests who stay with us become part of that experience — we interact with them, and share stories. They leave feeling like they were hosted, not just accommodated.”

As one flies over the mountain passes, meandering rivers, and undulating beauty of Ladakh, they can’t help but marvel at the untouched beauty, even in the day and age of commercialisation. The palace, with its conserved architecture, charming yet raw aura, and centuries-old legacy, reflects this very sentiment.

‘It’s not a number game. It’s about presenting Ladakh in a way that people appreciate it’  – Jigmed Wangchuk Namgyal

THE PRIDE OF LADAKH

Picture a majestic grand entrance, imposing archways, ornate interiors, rich fabrics, intricate carvings… Stok  Palace is truly a sight to behold. Every inch here exudes grandeur, steeped in Ladakh’s cultural, geographical and spiritual uniqueness. From the façade to the vibrant palettes and furnishings. From Buddhist frescoes and murals, to the locally made furniture, tapestries, and windows. The interiors are brimming with rustic yet timeless character, bathed in dazzling reds, chrome yellows, indigo blues, and glaring golds.

“One of my fondest memories as a kid was helping the monks paint the Shing-stak, the intricately carved wooden frames on windows and balconies,” shares Stanzin. “We used natural pigments and minerals to create the colours. The level of detail and precision they brought was just incredible.” 

Preserving authenticity has, essentially, been the décor philosophy of Stok Palace. Rather than trying to modernise the place merely to render it visually pleasing, their goal is to preserve it so it can stand strong for another 100, maybe even 300, years. However, once the doors opened, the palace had to be upgraded with contemporary comforts, some aspects of which were rather delicate.

“I had to decide where to add the en-suite bathrooms or shower cabins, or sinks,” says HH Jigmed. “Since this is a mud-and-brick structure, all our pipes are exposed — just painted over to match the décor. There’s some exposed wiring, as well. A lot of people actually welcome this rugged aspect of the interiors. It adds to the ambience.”

For the Namgyals, hospitality goes beyond numbers and the need to scale  up. They perceive it through the lens of sustainability, focussing instead on offering guests the quintessential Ladakhi experience. So, when King Jigmed took charge of the structural repairs in the mid-90s, he was firm he’d only work with local builders who understood the vernacular style.

“I could have added Gautier chairs or other such brands, but I wanted to keep the place as authentic as possible, so  the interiors would reflect what you’d expect on seeing Stok Palace from outside.”

A LIVING MUSEUM

The family’s unique collection of traditional Thangka art enjoys the place of pride in the palace museum — none of it in the guest rooms — along with the Queen’s turquoise crown, the knotted sword, and a myriad other artefacts that narrate tales of the region. “There are 35 pieces of Thangka art from the early 14th or 15th century. I think these are exclusive to our family,” says His Highness. 

“They tell you the story of the Jatakamala, of Buddha — all the different stages from the day he was born to the time he attained enlightenment.” “

With all the art and artefacts in the museum, we bring the community together,” says King Jigmed. “People interact with these, and appreciate and understand what Ladakh is all about. It’s also a kind of learning experience for the younger generation.”

THOSE WERE THE DAYS

Remembering the times he returned home from Delhi, where he studied, back in the early ’70s and ’80s, he recalls the cultural shock he’d face from the stark contrast in atmosphere. “Here, one could breathe in the fresh air. There was no electricity — we would use petromaxes or wicker lamps in the pitch dark, but there was a certain beauty in that,” he reminisces. “The place was untouched, undisturbed by phones or televisions. Completely unfiltered. In a way, such experiences taught me a lot of humility.” 

Stanzin, however, cherishes memories of the people who lived with them in the palace, “of the elders and their stories about our ancestors, the palace’s history, and folklore that brought the place to life.” 

“I was away from home a lot for my education, but the stories I heard and the feeling of being connected to something much older than myself has stayed with me,” he shares.

‘To me, modern brick structures are among the most beautiful architectural elements’  – Jigmed Wangchuk Namgyal

LIVE LIKE A KING

The driving force behind Stok Palace is the desire to inspire inner tranquility among guests, to encourage them to wholeheartedly immerse themselves in surroundings. Aiding the experience is the resident monk, who creates amulets for visitors at the Lachung temple. 

‘I was a little scared of the palace! Apart from the kitchen area, the rest of it felt quite eerie to me. The ghost stories definitely got to me!’  – Stanzin Jigmed Namgyal

“The monk doesn’t just perform his rituals for me, or the palace — it’s for the entire village. So, this practice became a natural extension of the guest experience,” Jigmed explains.

When asked what they would like their visitors to carry with them, the father and son had vastly differing responses. Pat came Stanzin’s answer: “A royal experience.”

“But more than luxury, I hope they leave with a feeling of timelessness. That they stayed not in a hotel, but in a living, breathing piece of history,” he adds.

For the senior Namgyal, his wish is for them to leave Ladakh “without disturbing the natural beauty of the place they visited.” It has neither been about the international attention Stok Palace garnered, nor seeking credit for the accolades — it’s been about “playing my part for the community.”

“It gives me great pride because Ladakh shines through such accolades. It’s well deserved exposure,” he says. “Ultimately, it’s about giving people a sense of belonging.”

KNOW THE NAMGYALS

Your favourite room in the palace?

S: “The kitchen area has always been the heart of the palace.”

An heirloom that holds deep emotional value for you?

J: “The king’s crown.”

If Stok Palace had a soundtrack?

S: “It would perhaps be a blend of monastery chants and the sounds of Ladakhi folk instruments.”

A perfect day at Stok Palace?

J: “Watching the colours of the sky changing at different times of the day.” 

Your favourite spot in Ladakh?

S: “Hemis or Zanskar Valley — both are incredibly serene and grounding.”

Your go-to spot for quiet reflection?

J: “Any of our balconies. Each of them has a different view that gives me different 
perspectives on things.”

If the palace could speak, what would it tell the next generation?

S:“I imagine it would say, ‘Stop partying so much!’” 

A tradition you would never want lost from Ladakh?

J: “Our architecture. That’s our identity.”

Photography by Hajra Ahmad and Kounteya Sinha

This interview was featured in the August '25 issue of HELLO! India. For more exclusive stories, subscribe to the magazine here.