The intoxicating romance of Indian weaves

It was a scene straight out of a sepia-toned era - sarees rubbed shoulders with Mary Janes and embroidered skirts showcased their own love language. Bright reds, sea-greens and violets were in the air along with the subtle beauty of the pearls. There was poetry in the air, and the singer took one back to an era of royalty, nostalgia and romance. Lyrical, fascinating and so perfectly synchronised was how designer Anavila Misra unveiled her latest collection, Sarmast, recently. Fittingly held in the City of Nizam’s, Hyderabad, the show was a poetic homage to the city’s timeless mystique, artistic opulence, and soulful grace – just like the designer’s understated personality.

Hosted at one of the city’s newest properties, the stunning The Leela at Banjara Hills, the grand showcase witnessed a soiree attended by the city’s who’s who. The evening also witnessed the first formal Indian retail debut of Anavila’s home line. Developed in partnership with Deepthi Reddy from The Leela, Anavila's home line showcases pieces thoughtfully curated for the experiential retail space. The line includes cushion covers, bed linen, table linens, upholstery, throws, and accessories—rooted in understated, minimal design. Around 90% of the line is crafted in linen, complemented by silk velvets, West Bengali khadi, and Bhuj kala cotton, alongside traditional crafts like sujani and khatwa embroidery. 

Known for reintroducing the sari as an everyday fashion statement Anavila’s latest collection featured flowing silhouettes blurring the lines between East and West, echoing the movement of dervishes, the collection is built with sumptuous textiles such as hand-woven linens with zari, soft silks, organzas, and brocade that drapes like a celebration of inner ecstasy. French laces and crochet details bridge the visceral with the feminine.

Sarmast, translated to poetically intoxicated in Persian, is an ode to the ecstatic soul of Hyderabad. Inspired by the mystic state of wajd, this collection channels the enraptured elegance of Sufi thought entwined with the refined grandeur of the Nizam heritage. 

Embroidery motifs reflect the ornamental floral language of the late 19th-century European art movement, with forms inspired by Rococo and Baroque aesthetics, gracefully translated with Indian artisanal skills. Time-honoured Indian textiles have always added depth and distinction to the global fashion narrative, and here too, they form the foundation of the collection’s character.

Well-known in the fashion circle and beyond as one of the first designers to embrace pure linen yarns for saris, Anavila Misra established her eponymous brand in 2012. She has carved a niche for herself in the fashion industry with her linen saris, which are considered the best heritage gift handed down to us. She works closely with various craft clusters across the country, including West Bengal, Jharkhand, and Bhuj, promoting sustainable fashion through traditional handloom techniques.