


In India, Chinese food is most commonly reinvented into the category of 'desi Chinese'. And though local adaptations dominate menus, Chef Neeraj Tyagi believes that there is immense value in bringing diners back to the roots of the cuisine. “Authenticity is important, not because it restricts creativity, but because it allows guests to understand the roots of a cuisine before exploring its evolution,” he says. For him, the goal isn’t to replace India’s beloved versions, but to place authentic Chinese flavours on the same table, giving diners the awareness they deserve.

For Chef Tyagi, ingredients like Shaoxing wine, Sichuan peppercorns or authentic sauces are non-negotiable. “They are the soul of the dish,” he says. Without them, a recipe may be pleasant, but it loses its emotional memory and regional identity. “These ingredients carry centuries of culinary culture; they do not just flavour a dish, they define it.” This philosophy becomes even more powerful when flavour, story and emotion converge. “All three are inseparable,” he says. Authentic dishes, when executed with intention, can transport diners to another geography. One of the biggest challenges, he says, is unlearning popular misconceptions. “Many diners associate Chinese food with excessive chilli, sweetness, or cornflour-thickened sauces,” he points out. Authentic Chinese cuisine is rooted in restraint and nuance; from the subtle purity of Cantonese cooking to the sensory complexity of Sichuan peppercorns that “don’t only add heat, they numb to highlight aroma.”
At Grand Hyatt Mumbai's China House, maintaining that very same authenticity begins with respect for fundamental techniques. Chef Tyagi explains that the team never compromises on traditional methods or the essential balance between umami, heat and aromatics. “We balance technique with sensitivity to local preferences,” he notes. Spice levels can be adapted for comfort, but the core flavours, ingredients and textures remain true to the region they represent. “It’s not a fusion; it’s respectful calibration,” he emphasises.
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Reintroducing India to these nuances is less about correcting taste and more about widening understanding. This pursuit of true flavour was also the driving force behind China House’s collaboration with Lee Kum Kee and chefs from Grand Hyatt Kuala Lumpur. “Our goal was to bring uncompromised authenticity to India,” Chef Tyagi explains, so that Chinese cuisine as it is meant to be; deep, layered and rooted in centuries of tradition, even while being enjoyed thousands of miles away.
Chef Neeraj Tyagi is the Director of Culinary at Grand Hyatt Mumbai and has over 24 years of experience in the luxury hospitality industry.
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